4/5/01
This morning was a sad low point when Creeper and I got up to get ready for the entry into the GSMNP (Great Smokey Mtsn. National Park). Creeper walked outside in the driveway of the Hike Inn for a minute and it was obvious he wasn't going to be able to hike today. After some discussion, it was decided that he would either work out a deal with Jeff and Nancy at the Hike Inn for a lower rate for 3 nights or hitch back to Wesser and stay at the bunkhouse at the NOC. The plan now is for him to meet me at Newfound Gap Sunday morning and rejoin me for the 2nd half of the Smokies on Monday. I really felt compassion and sorrow for Creeper as I know it is his passion to be on the trail and I can only imagine how it would feel if the tables were turned and it was me having to sit out the fun for several days. Making that hard decision took a lot of guts, wisdom, and maturity on Creeper's part to take care of his body even though his mind said go, go, go!
So, Jeff loaded up Buzzard (from near Chicago, Illinois) and he and I set off about 5 minutes apart across the Fontana Dam into the GSMNP. I had some time to reflect as I crossed that dam, thinking about all the hikers who started 163 miles back with a dream, only to come up short. But I can honestly say that they're all champions for even trying because hiking the AT is no easy task. It challenges every part of your being and if you don't want AND need to do it you won't make it to Katahdin. I caught up to Buzzard and we ended up hiking partners all day, eating lunch together, pumping water together, and deciding where to stop. This guy can fly, and we had a great pace throughout the day, especially for a huge climb from Fontana Lake to the ridgeline. We covered 13 miles in 7 hours including breaks and lunch and were in camp by 2:30 p.m. We've been at the Russell Field shelter all afternoon and evening. Two section hikers from New Hampshire and Boston, Pete and Tom, were in the shelter when we got here. We had been told earlier this morning by Roger Bunton, GSMNP volunteer, that the shelter was full tonight and there would be no room for us. We were pleasantly surprised when, at 2:30, there were no other thru-hikers at the shelter. This guaranteed us a spot since each shelter has 3 reserved spots for thru-hikers each night. After getting our wet gear off (heavy fogged in trail hiking all day) we went on a major firewood mission to make a fire in the stone fireplace. We were successful getting the fire going (Buzzard was a scoutmaster for many years) and we have had a very large fire blazing in the shelter for hours now. Buzzard is 60, has 6 children (4 boys, 2 girls) and is hiking the trail to escape his children for a while since they're all married and have their own homes. They call on him for home improvement projects since he's a master with his hands...he needed a break and his wife will meet him in Damascus, VA later in May to hike north to Vermont with him. I really enjoyed the day with Buzzard as he and I hike similarly plus the guy is very funny and I laughed all day at his antics.
Tonight we're in the shelter with "Marathon Man", "Gapper", "Shepherd", "Jeffrey", "Brodie", and Tom and Pete. Pete is an active scoutmaster up in NH and we shared a lot of scouting stories this afternoon and evening between him, Buzzard, and me. Tom hooked up some tarps against the chain link fence on the open side of the shelter...it's doing a great job keeping the heat from the fire in and the cold foggy wind out. This and many of the other shelters in the GSMNP have chain link fences to keep the people in and the bears out. No sign of a bear tonight but the night is young and who knows? I've got my camera poised just in case! Great to be warm and dry and with great guys tonight who all get along. Everyone's bedded down (9:30 p.m. now) except me as I sit by the fire and write. Forecast is possible rain overnight and tomorrow so at least we'll start dry tomorrow morning. Life is great on the trail despite missing Creeper and I'm very upbeat and positive about continuing the journey! Today's stats: Lo: 40 degrees, high 50. Clouds, fogged in, rain droplets from the trees. Mileage: 13.1 Cumulative: 176.6.
