4/20/01
What a great night of sleep I had last night. NOT! ! ! Two dogs barked all night long just outside the bunkhouse window, a train zipped through blowing its horn every hour all night long, and the door exiting the bunkhouse to go to the bathroom squeaked horrendously! ! At least it was warm and I had a pillow. Since I was in Erwin a day early, thanks to yesterday's 20 miles, I knew I could take a zero mile day...OR...I could figure out a way to hike some more and still get back to Erwin in time for Paula to meet me tomorrow mid-morning. So, after studying the map and data book, I decided I could hike 8 miles to a road crossing, then hitchhike back to Erwin and do laundry in the afternoon, etc. So I popped out of bed and got on the trail at 8:15 a.m. Since today was my birthday, I decided I could spend it however I wished and I was in the mood to hike! By the time I had 5 miles and a 1500' climb behind me, the wheels were turning in my brain and I stopped to pull out the map and data book to see where the next road crossing was after the planned 8 miles. It was at the 19 mile mark, with a big climb over Unaka Mtn., so I decided that was not possible, but staying at the shelter 4 miles from the second road was feasible. So I got out the trusty cell phone and called Uncle Johnny's hostel in Erwin to cancel my plans to stay there a second night (no way was I going to suffer through that again!) Then I called Paula to tell her my master plan and to let her know that I might need a ride from the 2nd road in case hitchhiking was unsuccessful tomorrow morning. So, instead of going back to Erwin, it was going to be a 15 mile day, a night tenting or sheltering, then 4 miles tomorrow morning and a hitchhike attempt back to Erwin for a mid-morning rendezvous with my spring bride. So much for plans!
I reached Beauty Spot by lunch time, another bald with sweeping views despite a cloudy day. I wanted to eat lunch there but was low on water so I left the view for Beauty Spot Gap where I pumped water and ate one of my dinners for lunch (first hot lunch meal on the trail). After a satisfyingly delicious lunch, the grueling climb to the top of Unaka Mtn. was before me. I zipped right up the big mountain. The top offered no view, but the trail at the top took me through a dense evergreen forest which was very dark for mid-afternoon, but was contrasted by the blanket of snow which had not yet melted due to the absence of sunshine. Stunningly beautiful. And someone had taken the time to make a snowman who happily was guarding "Sherwood Forest". Wow! What a day. So after thoroughly absorbing Unaka's beauty, a descent (steep) then another mountain ascent brought me to Cherry Gap shelter at 4:30 p.m. The shelter was old and dumpy, and it was empty, so my mind was churning again with thoughts of trying to make it to the road before dark with enough time and luck to hitch a ride back to Erwin. Could I do it? I decided boldly to go for it, knowing everything would have to work out just right to pull this off. The four miles from the shelter to the road were pure hell (can you say PUD's?). Steep ups for 300 feet, then steep downs for 300 feet. Repeat the cycle 7 times and you've got the nightmare I faced after already hiking 15 miles on a day I could have taken zero.
After pushing my body to the limit, I emerged at the road at 5:36 p.m. I was elated, but this was not a super highway and the number of cars traveling this curvy old mountain pass were limited. I tried to get a hitch for 45 minutes in vain. Just as I was feeling frustrated and thinking about giving up to find a suitable tentsite for the night, I got a ride. Yippee! ! ! The only problem was my ride was going to Johnson City, not Erwin (they're 16 miles apart). Norbert Goode from Boone drove the 15 miles down to the junction point where it's a left turn for Erwin and a right turn for Johnson City. He pulled over to let me out (meaning I'd have to get a second hitch), but asked me if I would want to consider staying in Johnson City instead. Since I knew it would be a shorter drive for Paula tomorrow, I agreed and off we went to Johnson City. Norbert had an appointment and was behind schedule so he didn't have time to drive me all over Johnson City looking for a choice motel room. He dropped me off at a Comfort Inn and I was feeling pretty pumped up at this point about the events of the day. (The adventure is just beginning.) I walked into the Comfort Inn and inquired about room rates and availability. They had one room left, it was a smoking room, and they wanted a week's salary for the place. The woman at the front desk was unyielding on price and I could tell she thought I was a vagrant with the backpack, beard, and smelly clothes. (What a thin line we walk everyday...and how many times do we unfairly judge others because of their clothing or hairstyle? There are many lessons of life to be learned on the trail). I inquired about other nearby accomodations and was told that there was a soccer tournament in town as well as some stock car event and that every motel and hotel in the area were full. Oh boy. Now what did I get myself into? Sixteen miles from where I wanted to be, tired, hungry, running our of daylight, big town, lots of rednecks everywhere, and not in a trail town where hitchhiking is common. It was time to rely on FAITH.
I stopped at the Burger King next door and ate a meal (I actually sat down inside and ate, despite the time running out for daylight). I asked the manager how to get back to Erwin and fortunately the road I was on lead back there. He said there was a motel 3 miles out of town so I figured I'd try and walk there and stick out my thumb while walking even though odds were against me. So I had walked 1/2 mile, when suddenly this guy who looked vaguely familiar to me slowed down as he was driving the other direction (toward Johnson City). He pulled over on the side of the road, asked me where I was headed, then said to hop in and he would take me there. Oh happy day!! Dave Mueller recognized me from last weekend when he and his girlfriend were at Hot Springs at the Paddler's Pub. Is that coincidence or divine intervention or what? Incredible. Dave is also from Boone (two hitchs in a row) and just moved to Johnson City where he accepted a job at East Tennessee State University. He happily drove me 16 miles to town then all through Erwin looking for the Holiday Inn Express. We weren't having any luck, so we finally stopped at the YMCA and asked. Dave drove me right to the door of the hotel. RELIEF! It was 8:15 p.m. and I was safely back in Erwin. The hotel had some rooms available, but at $60 a night; I didn't want to spend the money without holding out for the possibility of splitting a room with another thru-hiker. I had just finished talking with the front desk and was calling Paula when Hip walked by. I told him about my adventurous day, and he offered me half his room. What a great birthday today. To recap, a beautiful day to get 19 miles ahead of schedule, two great trail angels who got me to Johnson Cith then Erwin, and a hotel room with a really nice guy. I couldn't have written a script any better! Life on the trail is good. Faith and trust that everything would work out came to fruition. Here are todays stats: low 35 degrees, high 60. Cloudy and 15 seconds of rain, otherwise beautiful. Todays mileage: 19.1 Cumulative 357.8
As an afterthought, a special thanks is in order for Norbert Goode and Dave Mueller for their acts of kindness. Trail magic continues. Thanks a lot, fellows.
